Broad-shouldered and dense, with plum, cherry, leather, iron and tobacco flavors that gain intensity as this complex red evolves on the palate. The finish is very stony, with a lingering aftertaste of chalk and iron.
- Wine and Spirit
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A hailstorm in August reduced yields for the 2008 vintage at Col d’Orcia, but dry conditions followed, which concentrated flavors in the remaining fruit. That concentration is evident in this riserva from Poggio al Vento, a vineyard planted in 1974 on a south-facing slope at nearly 1,150 feet above sea level. Pleasantly abrasive tannins shroud a tight nugget of dark cherry and bitter almond flavor at the wine’s center. Those flavors gain volume gradually, adding soft notes of tarragon and gentian along with earthy mushroom tones. The wine is dense and tight, yet manages to maintain a translucent, lifted feeling. It aged for four years in large Slavonian casks and another two in bottle, and will continue to improve over the next decade.
You'll find aromas suggesting underbrush, scorched earth, truffle, grilled herb and a balsamic note on this robust red. The brawny palate evokes dried black cherry, prune, licorice and tobacco alongside chewy tannins and the heat of evident alcohol. Let the muscular tannins unwind for a few more years then drink sooner rather than later to capture the remaining fruit.
Released seven years after the harvest, the 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento is a stunning wine. It soars to the highest altitudes in terms of elegance and power. These opposite forces—muscle versus grace—are what distinguish this classic vintage. Col d'Orcia has effortlessly captured and immortalized both sides of the continuum. The bouquet produces a long succession of aromas including dried cherry fruit, licorice, cola, lavender flower, cured meat and black truffle. The velvety finish is supple and long in persistence. This is a gorgeous creation.
Medium deep red. Flinty nuances complicate strawberry, floral and blood orange aromas. Deep, dense and almost brooding on the palate, but with outstanding precision to the spicy red fruit and earth flavors. Finishes with substantial fine-grained tannins and outstanding length. Still quite closed, even imploded, I'd lay this beauty down for six or seven years.
Combining muscle and finesse, this opens with scents that recall perfumed berry, iris, wet earth, leather and an earthy note of underbrush. The firmly structured, balanced palate offers juicy wild cherry, licorice, clove, grilled herb and a hint of toast framed in firm, mature tannins. Drink 2018-2033.
The top bottling of Col d'Orcia, one of Brunello's southernmost estates, is harvested from Poggio al Vento (or windy hill), positioned at about 1,150 feet on a south-southwest-facing hill overlooking the Orcia River. It spent four years in large Slavonian and French oak casks and another two years in bottle, developing layers of baking spices, dried thyme and oregano and porcini mushroom. The texture is lithe and the flavors lifted, with tight black cherry notes edged in thyme, oregano and black spices, and fine mineral tannins that guide the flavors to a long and harmonious finish. Still fresh and vibrant, it is just beginning to hit its stride.
A wine of remarkable finesse and nuance, the 2008 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento is exceptionally beautiful. The 2008 is refined, silky and nuanced, especially within the context of the vintage. Freshly cut flowers, cedar, tobacco and anise are all beautifully delineated throughout. I am quite impressed with how well the 2008 has come together over the last few years. Two thousand eight will be remembered as the year of the devastating mid-August hail. Quite miraculously, the Poggio al Vento emerged pretty much unscathed.
The aromas and flavors of cherry, strawberry, woodsy underbrush and mineral show development, but the vibrant acidity and pointed tannins impart freshness. Should be fine with a grilled steak or pork chop. Best from 2016 through 2030.
Bright red. Red cherry, aromatic herbs and tobacco aromas on the impressively deep nose. Sweet and seamless in the mouth, with ripe red cherry and fresh herb flavors lifted by bright acidity and supported by very fine, polished tannins. The clean, very long finish features repeating notes of sweet red cherry and raspberry syrup. Outstanding Brunello. Those who love the wines of Montalcino know that Poggio al Vento has a track record of excellence and is one of the top wines of the whole denominazione. I have completed three verticals of every vintage of this wine in the last three years and can confirm that it deserves that reputation.
The estate's 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento is striking. Freshly cut roses, sweet spices and red cherries wrap around the palate in a sensual wine endowed with superb depth and pedigree. This is one of the more feminine, gracious wines of the year. It will be interesting to see where the 2007 Poggio al Vento goes over the coming decades. Today, it is all about texture. The combination of dazzling fruit supported by plenty of structure makes me think this is one of the few 2007 Riservas that is built for the long haul.
Beginning to show the mellow cherry, mushroom, cigar box and complex spice aromas and flavors that mature Brunello is known for. Still needs time for the dense tannins to assimilate, and the finish is long.
Good bright medium red. Subtle aromas of spicy red cherry, red plum, dried flowers, coffee and mint. Suave and fine-grained, with a distinct medicinal menthol reserve and lovely floral/spicy lift. Finishes with serious gripping tannins. This is nowhere near its peak: I'd hold it for another six or seven years, at which point it may merit an even higher rating.
Poggio al Vento (from the 2004 vintage) shows smoky and savory notes of forest floor, bramble, cured meat, barbecue spice and teriyaki sauce. The wine is compact in the mouth, with polished tannins.
The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento bursts from the glass with an exciting array of sweet dark cherries, flowers, mint and licorice. All of the elements are in the right place. The 2006 combines power and finesse to a degree I have seldom experienced in the Col d'Orcia wines. Layers of fruit flow through to the huge, authoritative finish. Readers will be tempted to try the 2006 young, and so will I, to tell the truth. Although I would love to be wrong, the reality is that the 2006 isn't likely to be at its peak until age 20 or so. This is a fantastic showing from Col d'Orcia. Yields in 2006 were the lowest ever (with the exception of 1997), which explains much of the wine's richness and sheer power.
The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento is developing beautifully. Whereas the 2006 possesses considerable power, the 2004 is all about grace and refinement. The wine literally floats on the palate with silky red berries, flowers, licorice and spices. A bright, salivating finish gives the 2004 its sense of proportion. This is another stunningly beautiful Brunello from Col d'Orcia that promises to drink well for many, many years.
At a tasting of Brunello from the superb and rightly high-acclaimed 2004 vintage, this wine shone. It had heavy competition since the 2004 vintage produced many outstanding Brunellos. But this wine was a cut above everything else in the room. It had a rich, earthy, smoky black fruit dense core that is the hallmark of Brunello, but a length and complexity that was staggering. A wine to cellar, it has plenty of supple and ripe - not green and hard - tannins befitting a young wine. But its impeccable balance suggests a gorgeous evolution. In my private scoring system, this wine gets the highest level, WB (for 'would buy').
Medium ruby with a hint of garnet at the rim. Beautiful sangiovese nose speaks of violet, underripe red berries, licorice and cured tobacco. Very intense, almost syrupy red cherry flavors are complicated by spicy leather and game nuances. Beautifully harmonious acids give this real definition and lift, with ultra-smooth, velvety tannins echoing on the concentrated, long finish.
Outstanding Brunello Riserva, that is very complex in character, richly flavored (roasted nut, new oak, black currant, and cherry), and firm and long on the palate, with a mildly tannic finish.