Château Greysac Joy & Fine Art in the Médoc
There is a château in a tucked-away corner of Bordeaux, along the sea-grassy edges of the Gironde north of Saint-Estèphe, where even the most seasoned wine professional is likely to find themselves utterly charmed. First by the artistry of their surroundings, then by the delightful proprietor and his captivating Médoc wines.
Like many of its neighbors, Château Greysac has a storied history. The Directoire-style mansion was built in the 1700s and, over its 300-year history, has changed hands more than a few times — some of its most famous owners include Georges Héreil, the engineer who created the Caravelle plane, and Gianni Agnelli, former owner of Ferrari, Fiat, and Château Margaux. But the beautiful Greysac estate entered a new (and its most dynamic yet) era when Jean Guyon, owner of neighboring Domains Rolland de By, took over the property in 2012.
Guyon, a tastemaker and designer who famously moved in the circles of fine art and couture fashion, arrived with a very clear objective: to craft fine wines with the same care and attention to detail as a Cru Classé, but at far more approachable prices. By modernizing the winery, he carefully combined the best traditions of Bordeaux with new technology and, looking to the future, has overhauled vineyard practices with sustainability in mind. In 2018, his efforts began paying serious dividends when the estate was classified as Cru Bourgeois Supérieur.
As the largest land owner in the Médoc, Guyon enjoys control over quality and consistency that few other Bordelaise châteaux can claim. While the winery has had over 60 years of success in the United States, since 2015, Greysac has been the #1 Médoc over $20.*
A colorful, warm, and humorous proprietor, Guyon has ushered in a kind of belle époque for Château Greysac — and it goes beyond the meticulously crafted wines. His love of fine art is proudly on display at every turn, from the modern sculptures dotting the lawn (and even gracing the otherwise immaculate winery) to the rustic, elegant interior of a mansion that’s brimming with French country charm and all manner of curios.
* Nielsen AOC + Liquor 52 Weeks, Bordeaux 750mL 1/27/24
Terroir
Some of the greatest wines from Bordeaux come from its northernmost region, the Médoc. Located on the 45th parallel, the sea-level area benefits from its location on the banks of the Gironde River in a few ways — temperature regulation, plenty of reflected sunshine to help ripen the grapes, and cooling winds (from the river itself and sweeping in off the Atlantic Ocean). This cooler, breezy maritime terroir also helps reduce the impact of humidity and disease in its vineyards.
The soils in the Médoc are varied — the region is founded on a bedrock of limestone, a result of the eruption of the Massif Central volcano during the Jurassic era. On top of this are various types of granitic stones, but it is the famous Gunzian gravel that gives Château Greysac wines remarkable freshness, finesse, and age-worthy structure.
Viticulture
Jean Guyon’s focus in his vineyards is sustainability. Since taking over in 2012, he has taken a wholistic approach to managing the estate with a focus not only on the health of the vines, but the biodiversity of the region as a whole. Guyon has also reduced energy costs, recycles all wastewater, and has introduced bees back into the environment.
Clocking in at 68 hectares / 215 acres, the estate is one of the largest in the Médoc. The vineyards have an average vine age of 30-40 years and are a traditional médocain mix — 65% of the vines planted are merlot, with 29% cabernet sauvignon, 3% petit verdot, and 3% cabernet franc. Harvesting is done mostly by hand.
Greysac Estate Winemaking
Winemaking at Château Greysac is an intentionally slow, detailed process for their Médoc wines — from a two-day, pre-ferment maceration to fermentation in stainless steel and cement, finishing with malolactic fermentation in oak barrels. The wines rest on lees in barrel for three months and age for a further 12 months, partly in oak and with the rest in tank. An extra four to five years’ rest in bottle before release ensures the wines are ready to drink on release — and will still age beautifully. The wines offer finesse, generosity, and seamless structure, and with extra cellaring before release, the winery ensures that their current vintages are always ready to drink on release.
More Than Fashion
“My desire to return to a sustainable culture is not to follow a fashion trend that is sometimes excessive,” says Guyon. “A sudden change can have unfortunate repercussions on harvests and therefore on the financial life of the vineyard. For several years, we have been experimenting to find the most appropriate and thoughtful methods in relation to the natural needs of our land.”
Some of the many sustainable endeavors Guyon has undertaken — that have seen the estate attain HVE3 certification from the 2018 vintage — include controlled fertilization management, accurate and rigorous management of the health of the vines via phytosanitary measures, strict management of cellar effluents, installation of a photovoltaic park (solar station), and the use of pressure washing equipment.
Protecting biodiversity is another cornerstone of Guyon’s approach, including the mindful maintenance of meadows and forests to ensure winery activities do not degrade the natural ditches and that native terrains are not inadvertently uprooted. Château Greysac has planted fruit trees, installed hives and habitats for beneficial insects, etc. all to ensure the development and preservation of the local wildlife.
