Rieussec A Paragon First Growth in Sauternes
Reinvention is no easy feat when you are already a storied icon in a region brimming with stalwarts. And yet today, under Saskia de Rothschild, Rieussec — one of the original 1855 First Growths — has done just that.
Part of the Domaines Barons de Rothschild Lafite family since 1984, Rieussec is in the beating heart of Sauternes country. In fact, it’s one of the appellation’s benchmark (and largest) estates, extending over 85 hectares / 210 acres at the junction of the Fargues and Sauternes communes, adjacent to Château d’Yquem.
Originally, the estate belonged to an order of Carmelite monks known as the Carmes de Langon. But the upheaval of the Revolution led to the confiscation and eventual sale of the property in 1790 to the owner of Château La Louvière at Léognan. Known as an “object of national heritage,” Rieussec would change hands several more times before the Rothschild family arrived — Baron Eric de Rothschild had taken a shine to the château and considered the property, with its gently rising hills and lush, forested border, to be particularly outstanding.
Harnessing such unique terroir takes extraordinary know-how and meticulous, hands-on viticultural effort. Not to mention an incredible amount of skill in the winery. Strict measures to modernize and improve operations were introduced by the Rothschilds, including extensive pruning techniques, exacting plot selection, and the construction of a state-of-the-art winery.
This new era of quality continues forward today, skillfully managed by veteran Technical Director Olivier Trégoat. He works in the field with Mathieu Crosnier, operations director, and his dedicated team: Mathieu Desblancs, vineyard manager, and Bertrand Roux, cellar master. Together with the 2019 reimagining of Rieussec’s labels and bottles — a brilliant intersection of sustainability and aesthetics spearheaded by Saskia de Rothschild — and their official B Corp certification, this grand Bordeaux estate remains steadfast on its bright, future path.
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Founded
1750 -
Location
Sauternes, Bordeaux, France -
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Terroir
The Rieussec property is one of the most important estates in Sauternes and Barsac, overlooking the carrefour of the Ciron and the Garonne Rivers at the junction of Fargues and Sauternes. The vineyards comprise sandy gravel (80%) atop clay soils (20%) and enjoy an ideal southerly exposure.
But it is the misty-cold and humid autumn mornings, brought on by moisture from the rivers and trapped in by the nearby forests, that encourage the growth of the fungus botrytis cinerea — the beneficent “noble rot” that yields one of the world’s most revered and magnificently age-worthy wines.
Viticulture
Farming techniques remain traditional and specific to the Sauternes region. Through extensive, laborious pruning and the sparing use of natural fertilizer, the Rieussec team keeps yields, and production, excruciatingly low. The traditional reference is that a single vine should produce a bottle of wine. At Rieussec, a single vine typically produces enough grapes to make just one glass of wine. Yields per hectare can vary greatly depending on the vintage conditions.
Vineyards are planted mainly to sémillon, with sauvignon blanc and small amounts of muscadelle. Interestingly, Rieussec’s vineyards are completely grassed over, something of an exception in Sauternes.
Utmost Precision in the Rieussec Winery
Crafting great Sauternes is the winemaking equivalent of walking a tightrope. Undaunted, however, the Rieussec team carries out each step in the winemaking process with incredible precision.
For the production of the Grand Vin Château Rieussec and the Carmes de Rieussec, grapes are rigorously sorted to ensure only perfectly botrytized berries make it into the estate’s small pneumatic presses, including meticulous separation of stems and seeds. Grapes from each plot are pressed and fermented separately. All wines undergo lees aging/gentle stirring (length of time varies depending on the wine) and all wines rest for a time in either barrel or stainless-steel vats before bottling.
The New Face of Modern Sauternes
As with every property in the Domaines’ fold, Saskia de Rothschild has taken a firm stance on sustainability, a move that has ushered in a new era for Rieussec in particular.
The Grand Vin received an eco-friendly facelift beginning with the 2019 release, and it is now sporting a new bottle made of opaque, 96% post-consumer recycled glass — unique in the Sauternes market, where the wines are typically bottled under clear glass. The shape, too, has broken the mold of traditional Bordeaux and the new cork stopper can be re-inserted, making it easier to keep an opened bottle re-sealed in the refrigerator (where it will keep beautifully for several weeks). For the finishing touch, the traditional “crown” mark on the label was given a bold and modern twist.
“Chateau Rieussec has reinvented itself,” Saskia says. “The wine and bottle now share the same commitment to sustainable development — from agriculture in organic conversion that is more respectful of the environment, through to the preservation of natural resources provided by our new packaging, including an original bottle, one that you want to keep when it’s finished.”
